Sobre Los Hilados

por Susy

El hilado es la transformación de las fibras en filamentos. Se realiza mediante un proceso de torcido en una espiral continua.

Hilado del vellón

Básicamente la tela tejida está compuesta por hilos longitudinales, URDIMBRE y transversales, TRAMA.

Tejido en telar

LAS FIBRAS

Los hilados que componen las telas pueden ser de origen vegetal, animal o artificial. Estas últimas surgieron alrededor de 1940, el nylon.

Las fibras que había en América en épocas prehispánicas, eran las de los camélidos: la llama, el guanaco, la vicuña y la alpaca.

Otras fibras utilizadas para hilados eran el algodón, la seda salvaje, el llamado algodón del palo borracho y fibras vegetales de caraguatá o chaguar, entre otras.

Caraguatá

El algodón era usado por los Incas y se cultivaba en grandes extensiones en el norte de nuestro actual territorio argentino, luego esos cultivos se redujeron al Chaco. Los españoles trajeron semillas e incentivaron su cultivo.

Capullo de algodón

La seda salvaje es la seda del coyuyo que se encuentra en estado natural en la provincia de Catamarca.

Rubare i segreti della seta a bachi e ragni - Galileo
Coyuyo

La seda natural en cambio, llegó con la conquista española cuando trajeron los gusanos de la morera.

Gusano de seda

LA LANA DE OVEJA

La oveja fue introducida en América por los españoles. En ese entonces en Europa era ya una fibra muy apreciada.

Lana es el término que se usa para designar la fibra que proviene del vellón de la oveja.

En Argentina, en la Patagonia más exactamente, se crían las razas Merino Argentina, Merino Australiana y Corriedale, que producen la mejor fibra, ya que es larga, suave y fina; también se cría la Rommey Marsh que da una lana de grosor medio.

La oveja llamada criolla se encuentra en la Puna y en la región pampeana y produce lana abundante de una fibra de grosor medio.

LAS RAZAS OVINAS Y EL LARGO DE LAS FIBRAS

El largo de las fibras es diferente en cada raza. Lo ideal es que supere los 10 cm

Merino: entre 6 y 10 cm
Corriedale: entre 12 y 15 cm
Rommey Marsh: entre 14 y 17cm
Lincoln: entre 18 y 27 cm

CARACTERÍSTICAS DE LA LANA

La lana tiene características ecológicas ya que es reutilizable, además preserva la salud ya que forma una capa aislante que absorbe la humedad del ambiente. Incluso no se moja con facilidad porque el agua resbala o queda en la fibra. También evita que se sienta bruscamente los cambios de temperatura por lo que las prendas, tejidas con ella, son ideales para el invierno.

La lana ovina puede ser de color crudo, crema, amarillento, gris, marrón o negro. Las lanas de color crudo se pueden teñir fácilmente.

La fibra tiene ondulaciones, es resistente y elástica.

Para obtener un buen hilado el largo de la fibra no debe ser inferior a 6,5 cm.

Otras características son su resistencia, que le permite estirarse antes de romperse y su flexibilidad, ya que puede doblarse sin quebrarse.

Las fibras artificiales no pueden reemplazar a las naturales en los tejidos criollos, ya que son inferiores en cuanto a estética y calidad.

CUIDADO DE LAS PRENDAS DE LANA

Dichas prendas deben lavarse con agua tibia o fría, con jabón neutro, moviéndolas suavemente para luego enjuagarlas.

Cuidarlas de las polillas que son atraídas por ser su alimento, hay olores que repelen a estos insectos, por ejemplo, las flores de la lavanda, las hojas de menta seca, las hojas de salvia secas, las de laurel, la pimienta negra, el clavo de olor o las hojas de alcanfor. Es muy efectiva la mezcla de romero, menta, tomillo y clavo de olor molidos. También pueden utilizarse productos químicos como la naftalina o los aerosoles de larga duración.

Prendas de lana

LAS LANAS AMERICANAS

El término lana también se aplica para las fibras de los camélidos, como la llama, la alpaca, la vicuña y el guanaco.

El guanaco y la vicuña viven en Sudamérica en estado salvaje. Antes se los mataba para sacarles el cuero pero en la actualidad se esquilan. En Catamarca, el Estado, organiza la esquila para preservar a los animales.

La vicuña tiene un característico color canela, que corresponde al lomo y los flancos. Su lana es la más suave y fina, por ende su costo es el más elevado del mercado. Además la fibra es corta y muy lustrosa pero se obtiene muy poco vellón: 120g de hilo.

Vicuña

El guanaco es similar a la vicuña, pero su fibra es muy corta lo que dificulta su hilado.

Guanaco

La llama y la alpaca son animales que pueden ser domesticados. Su fibra es larga, puede llegar a los 15 cm. Es fina, suave y con cierto lustre. Los colores naturales son blanco, amarillo claro, café oscuro, gris, negro y rojizo. En la actualidad no hay alpacas en nuestro país, sus fibras provienen de Perú.

Llama

Alpaca

Alpacas

DE LAS FIBRAS AL HILADO

La esquila es la primera parte del proceso para extraer la lana. El método criollo consiste en manear (inmovilizar las patas) el animal antes de extraer la totalidad de la lana y el pelo, los cuáles reciben el nombre de vellón.

Antiguamente se usaba para la esquila el cuchillo, luego las tijeras y en la actualidad se esquila de manera mecánica.

Esquila de la oveja

El peso aproximado del vellón de una oveja es de 4,5 kg y los animales se esquilan una vez al año, al finalizar la primavera o a comienzos del verano.

Luego de la esquila, se realiza la selección de fibras. Se divide el vellón en varias calidades: el del lomo, el de los flancos, que es el mejor, y el de las patas el de menor calidad. Además se selecciona entre lana, pelo y kemp (fibra gruesa).

Selección de fibras

Se retiran las lanas cortas, los restos de excremento, hojas, palitos, pajas, abrojos, motas y tierra adherida. A estas operaciones se las llama TIZADO. Algunas mesas de tizado tienen un alambrillo sobre una batea donde cae la suciedad al dar golpes a la lana con la mano o algún elemento. En el norte de nuestro país, es común usar el elástico de una cama vieja.

Tizado

Las vicuñas, en cambio, se esquilan año por medio para que le crezca bien el pelo. En Catamarca el Estado organiza la esquila con colaboración de la gente del lugar y los artesanos. Se arma un corral de dos metros de radio, cubierto por una especie de media sombra y sogas. Dos hombres sostienen al animal mientras un tercero le corta el vellón.

Esquila de la vicuña.

BIBLIOGRAFÍA: Telar Criollo. Cristina Giordano

εїз ✿゚¨゚*✿Susy✿*゚¨゚✿ εїз

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