Historia y técnicas del tejido en telar. Parte I

por Susy

Los hallazgos arqueológicos de material textil en América permitieron rearmar las diferentes etapas que fue atravesando.

Analizando telas encontradas en enterramientos funerarios se concluye que en sus inicios el tejido se realizaba con los dedos, con agujas de hueso o con palillos y un solo hilo, con el que se confeccionaban bolsas de mallas o redes, trenzados y enrejados.

Más tarde comenzó a usarse el bastidor en el cual se urden los hilos en forma longitudinal y se trama de manera contraria a este. Luego llegó el telar, donde se usa el lizo, este invento agilizó notablemente la tarea del tejedor.

Bartidor
Telar Maria
Telar de Cuadros

En Perú las telas lograron una excelente performance de forma muy temprana. Los tejidos más antiguos que se hallaron cuentan con 190 matices de teñido y hasta 200 hilos en un centímetro de trama, confeccionados por los Incas. Estos conquistaron las actuales provincias de La Rioja, Tucumán, Jujuy, Salta, Catamarca, San Juan, parte de Mendoza y, probablemente, Santiago del Estero; por lo que los pueblos de estas regiones recibieron una gran influencia de su cultura.

El tejido estaba instalado en casi todos los pueblos aborígenes y era una actividad que consideraban en el grupo de alto valor. Los tejidos más antiguos hallados en nuestro territorio datan de un período de entre el 500 a. C y el 500 d. C, en Salta dentro de la cultura Candelaria.

LOS TELARES INDÍGENAS

Telar horizontales
Telar de cintura
Telar al suelo
Telar vertical
Telar de palillos o fajas

ORIGEN DEL TELAR A PEDAL

Fue utilizado por primera vez en China, probablemente es de 4000 años de antigüedad.

Los persas, sirios y los palestinos aprendieron a usar el telar de pedal coincidentemente con el tejido de seda.

Los musulmanes, a su vez, introdujeron entre los siglos IX y X d. C, en España, el telar horizontal con lizos y pedales. Y en el siglo XVI llega a América.

El telar que llega a nuestro continente es el Aldeano Español, la diferencia con los telares aborígenes es que tiene pedales que dejan al tejedor sus manos libres. En sus comienzos sólo era utilizado por varones.

ORÍGENES DEL TELAR CRIOLLO

En Argentina el telar Aldeano Español se fusionó con los telares americanos y así se dió lugar al telar criollo.

Así se da comienzo a la explotación aborigen por parte de los españoles. A estos no se les pagaba ningún jornal. Las indias de entre 10 y 50 años de lunes a jueves, diez meses al año, al salir el sol debían juntarse en la palza del pueblo de indios a rezar y luego debían tejer e hilar. Los muchachos de 10 a 15 años debían hacer calcetas, recoger grana y algodón, los mayores de 50 a 70 años debían guardar los algodonales.

Las Misiones Jesuíticas enseñaron a trabajar a los pobladores originarios y así formaban artesanos y agricultores. En las Misiones Guaraníes las mujeres hilaban algodón y lana y los hombres tejían en los telares de tipo español.

Misiones Jesuitas en nuestro territorio“Durante la Colonia la industria tejedora además de abastecer las necesidades locales, era también una industria comercial y hasta de importación” (Clemente Onelli- 1926)El ingreso del ganado ovino fue de suma importancia en el incremento del tejido ya que, el vellón que de él se obtiene, es una fibra de fácil hilado y de gran abundancia.

Lentamente el telar criollo fue perdiendo su vigencia debido a la aparición del telar industrial y su rápida expansión en América de las telas fabricadas en Inglaterra.

Con el telar mecánico inglés, cambia la historia y comienza una producción con costos muy inferiores, incluso se fabricaban ponchos, algunos con diseños que intentaban imitar a los nativos. Sin embargo en épocas de guerra se cerraba la importación y además gracias a las leyes que intentaban proteger a la industria textil, las provincias siguieron produciendo los tejidos destinados al consumo interno.

LAS PIEZAS TRADICIONALES

Poncho
Fajas
Ligas para botas de potro
Matras (piezas de equipos de montar)
Alfombras

εїз ✿゚¨゚*✿Susy✿*゚¨゚✿ εїз

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